Try carefully pushing the material through the extruder manually to see if you can start the flow.Make sure the extruder is heated to the appropriate temperature for the material.There could be several reasons that the filament is not coming out of the extruder: Because the posts in the corners (that hold the screws) are each 0.25 x 0.25 inches, this will make our entire enclosure's footprint come out nicely to 2.0 x 1.5 inches. Just to give us even more room, let's round up the required cavity space to the nearest 0.5 inches. Adding dimensions will help us when we go to model it in the next section. Lid screw hole (free fit): 0.1285 inches → 0.140 inchesįrom here, it can help to sketch out what we want the enclosure and lid to look like.Enclosure screw hole (tap): 0.0890 inches → 0.100 inches.Read the tap drill size and the free fit size from the chart, round up, and oversize it by about 0.01 inch: As a result, we'll need to oversize the drill holes by 0.01 to 0.02 inches. In addition, using self-tapping screws forces some of the material to move out of the way, which can cause stress and fractures in the plastic. The molten plastic that comes out of the extruder also has a habit of "melting" a bit around the edges, which can cause holes to shrink. Most fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printers, like our LulzBot, do not have great tolerances or resolution (e.g. For the lid, we'll want the screws to be able to freely spin, so we'll use the free fit drill size, which is 0.1285 inches. These holes will be put into the base of the enclosure. You can see that for a #4-40 screw, we'll need to drill a hole with a diameter of 0.0890 inches ( tap drill size) for the screw's threads to bite into the material. Take a look at this tap and drill size chart from Michigan Tech. As a result, we'll want to look up the sizes of the holes we'll need. We'll be using #4-40 screws to affix the lid to the enclosure. 3DHubs: How to Assemble 3D Printed Parts Threaded Fasteners
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